Semana Santa Survival Guide

Paul, Mr. First Time Commenter heading down to Guatemala, this is for you.

I'm actually a bit sad that I won't even really be experiencing Holy Week here in Canada, as I'm working the whole time. Why, I ask, is the actual "holiday" (the day we get paid the big bucks) Easter Monday? Shouldn't it be Good Friday?

I have been getting weekends off, but was asked to work one. Not realizing which weekend it was, I said yes. Only later did I see that it was over Easter. Really, I'd prefer not to work, but alas... working I shall be.

So my Easter duty is to let those heading to Guatemala know how to survive the big holiday week. Here goes:

1. Don't go to the beach. This is what they look like that week:

Why so busy? Most Guatemalans are off work starting on the Wednesday and so that's where they go. Enjoy a beach any other time of year.

2. Be taller than 5 feet. Not hard for most of us, though I'm just squeaking in. I really love it that it's not hard to see the processions, because Guatemalans are so short. Trying to see a big, busy event in Canada? Forget it. You have to be a giant. It also helps that there's usually a row of people right on the road, then others can see from the raised sidewalk.

3. Be prepared for a lot of smoke inhalation. Not the tobacco variety; or that other variety. I'm talking Catholic insense. And a lot of it. I kind of like the smell, but it can burn the eyes, in the quantity they use. Take some eye drops, maybe?

4. Sleep? What's that? Residents stay up all night making these:

so you can forego a bit of sleep, too.

It's great to wander around Thursday night really late to see the works in progress. Then set your alarm and go out early. The really big procession starts at 6am. Don't forget the camera!

5. Remember, the processions go day and night. And they last for HOURS, as they meander through the streets, from one church to another. If you miss it going by at one point, you can find out the route and catch it later.

And each has its own beauty. Here's a night-time procession from Antigua Daily Photo.

That brings me to tip number 6.

6. Check out Rudy's site, Antigua Daily Photo.

7. Plan ahead for traveling. Remember that there are basically no public buses on Good Friday. And it's pretty hard to get in or out of Antigua on Good Friday. That said, we did do it one year when my parents visited me. But that was in a car. And I had to book bus tickets for us for Easter Sunday from Xela to Guatemala City quite a bit in advance. It's a busy time of year. There are a lot of foreigners there to check it all out and on top of that all the Guatemalans are traveling, too.

8. While Antigua gets all the press this time of year, there are processions everywhere. So check things out wherever you are.

9. Barter for whatever you buy. It's all part of the fun. If you don't speak Spanish and are obviously a tourist, they'll probably try and charge you double the price, maybe more during Semana Santa. If you want to pay extra, rock on. Do it. But I think bartering is all part of the experience.

10. Don't be throwing that money around in the middle of the street. Maybe that's stupid advice, since the middle of the street is where you buy things. But just be careful. Don't leave your hotel with hundreds and hundreds of quetzales. And put it in a secure, hard-to-get-to pocket. I'm not a fan of those money belts. To me, they're so obvious, since you have to dig through one to get your money out and thus simply advertise to the world: hello, my money is here, around my waist! I just stuck some money in one jeans pocket, some in the other one and I was good to go. Or this is a good time to wear cargo pants, with some money in several different pockets.

I was never robbed, but what better time to steal than when the crowds are big and everyone's watching the same thing? You have to have an extra awareness of your surroundings when you're in the third world. Oh, sorry, I recently learned that the new politically correct term is not third world, it's "developing world." Whatever.

11. Comfortable shoes. You will be walking all day long, on little sleep. And if you're in Antigua, it'll be on cobblestone streets. They may be pretty, but they're not comfortable to walk on.

12. Eat breakfast in Dona Luisa's or the place right along the park with the bookstore in front-- that one has a great brunch during Semana Santa. (What's it called, Rudy?)

13. When in Rome... in this case, it means eat ice cream. Guatemalans love their ice cream. So, what better way to get with la gente than to join them? Helados Pops, Sarita or just the little old guy ringing the bell on his ice cream cart, someohow fitting in between the throngs to sell his goods. Que rico!

14. And if I've now convinced some of you to go next year, remember: for Antigua, you have to book a lot of hotels months in advance. And it's not cheap. Most start taking reservations at the beginning of January. My first Semana Santa in Antigua, I did find a really dumpy hostel-type place a few days before Easter. It had doubled its price. Most places will also make you pay for three nights, due to the lack of public transit. So be prepared to stay a few days. By the end, you will have had your fill of crowds and processions... at least until the next Easter rolls around!